Sewing In A Zip For Beginners

Hand sewn zip added to handbag with magnetic button closure. Photo by Angela Lansbury.

 I looked for advice on hand sewing a zip in a pocket. If I have open pockets I am likely to lose items, or at least drop them and feel foolish retrieving them. I have sewn a button onto a towelling bathrobe pocket to secure my phone. No need to cut a buttonhole. Just sew on a piece of ribbon.

However, for travelling on a plane and long journeys when I might be taking off my jacket to go through security it is extra important to have secure pockets. So I am sewing in zips.

The first thing to note is that the British word is zip but Americans say zipper.

From one of the YouTube videos I learned some handy tips.

1 You can cut a nylon zip which is too long.

2 If you want stronger cotton you can put your thread through bees wax, which is sold in a small disc shape in a plastic saucer with notches both sides so you can lower your thread into the wax. (I use button thread, which is thicker, but you need a stronger needle with a larger hole.)

3 Interfacing strengthens the edge of the pocket around the zip.

4 You can iron quickly by placing an ironing pad on the fabric or under it.

5 Fix the zipper pull end first. You can then cut the zip. The first time I sewed a zipper into a bag I simply let the zip hand down the opposite seam. I did not know that you could cut zips. 

6 If the zip is the wrong colour, you might wish to sew it lower to conceal it. I sometimes sew it as high as I can to get more room in the pocket. But if your sewing stitches are wonky, best to keep the zip low and out of sight.

You may wish to pin the zip in first. In a pocket you are likely to catch your hands on the ends of the pin, so I prefer safety pins. I like pins which are not so large as to make holes in the fabric.

 If you cut a zip, sew across it immediately. You don't want to lose the zipper pull or drop if off and have the trouble of re-threading it.

When sewing on your lap, two things you should watch for are:

Do not sew through into your own clothes which you are wearing!

Do not sew through to another part of the fabric. I often check before pulling the thread tight.  

In addition to the practical advantage of having a zip, I always feel very smug and self-satisfied that I sewed in the zips. As if I am smarter than the average person and have a secret which nobody else knows.

If you have a broken zipper pull, rather than replacing the whole zipper, you may prefer to replace the zipper pull.

Handy words

basting stitch - long straight stitch (UK running stitch/tacking stitch)

Bees wax for sewing (brand names include Impex)

flip it - turn it

fusible  interface (some interfaces are stretchy)

ironing pad/pressing mat

overcast stitch

throw in - add

zip

zipper

zipper pull

Useful Websites

Inserting zips

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI9SbfAoBU0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xagFtIi_OdQ

Replacement zipper pulls

Unavailable out of stock on Amazon on 23 Sept 2021.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203288938146?hash=item2f54f706a2:g:BwUAAOSwrJJgN06V

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